Currently, many claims are made in the marketing of alpaca fiber and fiber products. Terms such as “warmer/stronger than wool”, “soft as cashmere”, “wicking abilities”, non-flammable” and “hypoallergenic” are often used to compare alpaca to other fibers and their products.  To address this AOBA is taking a proactive approach by gathering information and data and making it available to the alpaca industry.

There is no centrally documented data to support these claims. It may be that research and testing have been accomplished, but it is not readily accessible other than in marketing pieces.  In addition to the testing a search for previously conducted testing will occur and be posted as well.

Cotton and wool fiber and associated products have long had established values for certain attributes. Synthetic fiber developers often use that data to compare the functionality of emerging fibers to cotton and wool.

There are testing protocols available using ASTM standard methods to confirm and validate alpaca characteristics and compare to the widely accepted characteristics for cotton and wool, and even to extrapolate published information about synthetics, silk, and emerging “natural” fibers.

Because AOBA is the breed association for alpacas, it is incumbent on the association to be the leader in confirmation and validation of claims pertaining to alpaca fiber and fiber products. The Fiber Committee of AOBA is a logical group and has been assigned to coordinate and carry out the task.

Research and testing is needed to support the intrinsic characteristics of alpaca fiber as AOBA moves forward in the objectives of the Strategic Planning process. To formulate a strategic plan for fiber and finished goods production and promotion without sound data would be premature and inadvisable.

Research and Testing Studies

The first phase of the research and testing will be to validate intrinsic characteristics of alpaca fiber (things that are not variable among individual alpacas, ie not qualitative)

• To perform preliminary testing on the desired core characteristics (moisture absorption and retention, thermal conductivity and flammability as starting points)
• To carry out a literature search to find available data on the targeted tests as compared to alpaca and other fibers

The test areas are intended to address wicking (moisture absorption and retention), insulating and warmth (thermal conductivity) and flammability claims. Instinctively, these should be characteristics intrinsic to all alpaca fiber regardless of use.

Once accomplished, the test results from phase one would be published as preliminary data by AOBA on www.alpacainfo.com to be available to all interested parties.  A peer reviewed document will subsequently be published.

The second phase of the research will be to investigate other attributes of alpaca fiber and substantiate other claims, primarily for the apparel industry:

• Hypoallergenic claims will be the most costly, but likely the most important. “Hypoallergenic” borders on a health claim, which involves more than just a comfort factor (itchiness) While there are no regulations to the use of hypoallergenic with regard to textiles, it will be important to base such a claim on scientific data as time goes on to avoid charges of misrepresentation.
• Comparisons of alpaca to wool handle are often made, such as ”a micron of 26 in alpaca feels like a wool micron of 19”.  This area transcends laboratory testing, and would likely include consumer focus groups.
• Other attributes such as fineness, tensile strength, luster, and comfort factor would depend on individual fiber and the application for use. These are quality parameters, not characteristics inherent to alpaca as a fiber.  As commercial production is developed in the US, these attributes will become important to the processing industry in determining the use (and subsequent price paid) for individual lots of alpaca fiber. For purposes of AOBA, a range would be established to use as comparative marketing tools for the textile industry.

The longer term third phase of research would be to explore utilization of alpaca fiber in other aspects, such as technical textiles and commercial textiles.

Research Facilities

For Phase One, AOBA will utilize the testing services available at Gaston College Textile Technology Center, Belmont, NC and North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC. The facilities are familiar with a wide range of textile evaluation, and have recently been involved in a privately funded project of alpaca fiber and blends. The laboratory services there are in place, and adequate to do the testing as outlined for phase one. Gaston College was the host for the recent Alpaca Fiber Symposium. North Carolina State University has been involved with AOBA for several years in the investigation of alpaca fiber development from a Textile Engineering perspective, and is currently participating in the Student Design Competition through the Textile and Fashion Design programs.

For Phase Two, the research will be expanded to other Textile Departments at Colleges and Universities. Through the Student Design Competition, the AOBA Fiber Committee has adequate contacts to investigate and assess capabilities. Phase Two will encompass not only Textile Engineering, but Apparel, Consumer Science and Retail Management Departments.

Check the AOBA website for information regarding alpaca fiber and fabric testing, it will be posted as it becomes available.

May 1st, 2009 | Tags: alpaca fiber, alpaca fiber products, Alpaca Fiber Symposium, alpaca info, alpacas, AOBA, Fashion Design, Gaston College Textile Technology Center, hypoallergenic, North Carolina State University, Student Design Competition, Textile | Category: Business Matters | Subscribe to comments | Both comments and pings are currently closed